Due to the coronavirus pandemic, London Fashion Week, originally scheduled for January 2022, has changed its plans, and the British Fashion Council has announced that London Fashion Week 2022 will be divided into three events showcasing menswear and womenswear collections, three events from 18 to 22 February, 11 to 13 June and 16 to 20 September 2022. It is reported that a total of 14 Chinese designer brands participated in this fashion week, forming a rare Chinese designer brand in the history of London Fashion Week. Let’s take a look at what are the characteristics of these Chinese designer brands~
This is a designer brand of the same name born in 2011. Zhang Huishan is a Chinese-born in London, and on the way to pursuing fashion, the Chinese roots in his bones and the Western culture he came into contact with during his growth became the source of inspiration for his works, and also created the brand’s unique “national style”. In the women’s clothing designed by Zhang Huishan, everyone can always easily catch some design points that integrate Chinese and Western fusion, he integrates Chinese cheongsam elements, Chinese floral colors, etc. into the bold tailoring style of the West, and the gorgeous women’s skirt is wrapped in a subtle dignified style, forming a unique charm.
J E CAI (Cai Jiaen)
In the eyes of designer Cai Jiaen, clothing can be “modular”. Putting sensibility into reason, Cai Jiaen designed a “Algorithmic Mofular System”, which divides the composition of a garment from the general “top”, “bottom” and “skirt” into smaller “parts”, such as half sleeves, special-shaped vests that cover only one shoulder, tops with only placket, detachable boot barrels, and so on. All these parts can be arranged and combined in different ways, starting with the disassembly of the garment, and innovate the infinite possibilities of fashion. It is reported that Cai Jiaen’s “modular system of rule algorithm” is inspired by Chinese Taoist philosophical thought – “Tao gives birth to one, one life to two, two lives to three, and three lives to all things”.
Founded in Taipei in 2016, RAY CHU promotes genderless clothing based on the theme of 80s and 90s street culture. For Zhu Baiyan, every small detail in life can become the source of clothing design, the brand pays attention to the practicality of the product, the line cut is clean and generous, the fabric selection is comfortable and light, and the details are embellished with exquisite hardware to highlight the fashion personality.
Designer Wang Yuhan’s work is full of romantic Chinese literature.
This girl, who has been studying landscape painting since she was 8 years old, has deeply imprinted the elegance of oriental classical literature in her bones.
In Yuhan Wang’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection “Late Pine Cui Fang Shen”, Wang Yuhan uses ancient Chinese ink danqing as inspiration to integrate the pine stone and forest stream elements borrowed by the ancient literati into women’s clothing, depicting the beauty of women’s character.
Feng Chen Wang
Wang Fengchen describes his aesthetics as “modern in the future, real and multidimensional”.
Wang Fengchen’s hometown is Fujian, China, and in the men’s clothing she designs, we can read what she thinks and feels about her life.
In Feng Chen Wang’s Fall/Winter 2020 collection, the charm of Wuyishan at the dawn is transformed into warm colors on clothing, and in the Fall/Winter 2021 collection, she takes the ancient Chinese phoenix as the core inspiration, and embellishes it into different art forms in her pieces, promoting the concept of genderless clothing.
PRONOUNCE (Zhou Jun and Li Yushan)
PRONOUNCE is a dual-designer brand co-founded by Zhou Jun and Li Yushan in 2016.
The brand design language is more abstract, and at the same time vaguely witty, lively and interesting.
Sharing a common aesthetic and goal, the two designers are working to break down the boundaries between what people do for boys and men, creating a modern and sophisticated menswear wardrobe that blends Eastern and Western styles.
8ON8 (Gong Li)
Gong Li once revealed that he loves cooking and walking his dog, and he has poured his love of life into clothing design. His creations blend traditional craftsmanship with modern creative tailoring, looking for inspiration from the traces of history, while at the same time full of hope for the future, making 8ON8’s clothing humorous and steady.
KWK by KAY KWOK
Guo Zifeng launched his first personal brand collection at London Fashion Week in 2013, which was widely acclaimed.
The brand’s clothing style is very futuristic and full of design, which is loved by many domestic and foreign trend artists, and is also recognized by some technology brands.
In 2014, the brand partnered with Sony to design a fashion set for Sony’s digital products and held a mini runway.
Speaking of Hu Sheguang, the title of Dutch royal dress designer and Dutch queen’s exclusive court costume customizer may come to mind, and his clothing style is known for luxury and elegance.
Sheguang Hu is a mature European haute couture custom brand under its name.
With more than 20 years of experience, he has a very precise control of the fabric of clothing, and can make surprising shapes through the cutting of clothing, expressing his understanding of future aesthetics and the fashion concept he respects.
“Your wildness is the sexiest thing in the world.” Jenn Lee’s brand philosophy is to encourage women to express their passion, creativity and independence, to express themselves and to unleash their inner wildness. In order to better convey his design philosophy, Li Weizheng collaborates with dance, sound and visual artists to create more sparks and passions for people through cross-border innovation.
From some of Johan Ku’s runway series, we see that Gu Youwen plays with colors very well in clothes, bright and bold, gentle and playful, just like Gu Youwen’s character, brave and gentle.
Gu Youwen, who is in his 40s, can be said to be a mature designer who has been “crawling” in the fashion industry for many years.
On the way to chase his dream, he encountered many ups and downs, but he has persevered to this day.
He believes that the designer’s clothes will convey his inner world, so he must insist on what is right, speak up for the weak, and pass on encouragement and courage to more people.
oqLiq (Lin Jiahao, Hong Qi)
In the early days of the brand, Lin Jiahao and Hong Qi saw that many T-shirts on the market were printed in foreign languages, and they also wanted to print Chinese text elements on T-shirts.
Conveying oriental beauty is the initial obsession of the two people for clothing design, and it has also become the core of oqLiq’s inspiration on the runway.
In addition, the two designers paid great attention to the selection of ready-to-wear fabrics, insisting on focusing on comfort and increasing the practicality of clothing.
MARRK (Wang Kuma, Shi Tian)
The most frightening thing for designers in the fashion circle is “old” and “old”, but Wang Kuma and Shitian are very good at starting from “old” and “old” to show more futuristic fashion.
On the basis of inheriting Chinese traditional culture, MARRK grasps the eliminated and outdated elements in everyone’s clothing for “ingenious dislocation” design, giving new life to clothing, which is more eye-catching.
Founded in 2019, MITHRIDATE combines Eastern romance with Western flair, giving each fashion a gentle and independent character.
Designer Demon Zhang wants people to bravely dissect themselves and express themselves.
At the same time, MITHRIDATE also promotes the concept of genderless dressing, encouraging people to break boundaries and reinvent themselves.
For example, Demon Zhang likes the V&A Museum, so there will be many print elements, animal and plant motifs in the V&A Museum.
London Fashion Week is a stage for emerging brands in the fashion industry to shine, and a look at the list of participating brands over the years shows that there are more and more Chinese designers.
Most of them have the experience of exploring fashion culture in the West, but at the same time they have found their roots in China and used it as a feature, expressing their understanding of Chinese beauty in their design works and continuing to innovate the display of clothing.
We look forward to these 14 Chinese designer brands continuing to shine at this London Fashion Week.