British director Guy Ritchie (Garici) has always been famous for British gangster movies, and has established his status in the film industry with works such as “Two Barrels” and “Abduction and Deception”; It’s full of dark humor, twists and turns, and a fast-paced narrative.”
cover
style” is undoubtedly his impressive signature aesthetic, and Ritchie’s unique requirements for costume styling are also one of the distinctive features of his films.
After shooting many Hollywood movies, in 2020, Ritchie returned to his good crime genre films, showing his “cover style” again with “Gentleman’s Hunt”, and Michael Wilkinson, the costume designer of the previous “Aladdin”, also collaborated with him again to create exquisite British costumes, leading the audience into the world of gangsters that are both elegant and sinister.
| Discuss costume design directions with director Guy Ritchie
Search for images
“
Although “Gentleman’s Hunt” is a reproduction of the classic,
But we still want to create something that is both extraordinary and different. ”
—Michael Wilkinson, Costume Design
“The characters in this film all have a kind of rude attitude and noble appearance, which is similar to the director’s early works.” Costume designer Michael Wilkinson explained that early in the run-up stage, director Guy Ritchie indicated that he wanted to shoot a crime film similar to his early style. Therefore, Wilkinson began to rewatch films such as “Two Barrels” and “Abduction and Fraud” very early on, trying to grasp the costume characteristics of the characters in the film.
Unlike other directors who only suggest that the costumes should be more complex or flashy, Ritchie is full of understanding of the characters he creates, not only to give each character a unique costume look, but even to be able to directly inspect the composition of the clothes, Wilkinson said: “Guy really has a very subtle understanding of costumes. ”
| How do you create distinctly modern British-inspired clothing?
「
The director wanted a quintessentially British outfit that was both eye-catching and cosmopolitan. ”
“Every costume has to add some simple elements so that the audience can clearly distinguish each person.” Costume designer Michael Wilkinson said that at the director’s request, whether it is a drug lord, gang boss or street gangster, the costume is mainly based on modern British style, so he wanted to create a style that is slightly exaggerated from the real world, but not detached from the real world, so that the style is more prominent and impresses the audience.
To this end, Wilkinson sources clothing from the Internet, boutiques and fashion stores, and matches a large number of bespoke accessories full of vintage elements to create an original and distinctive mix and match style. Wilkinson also believes that the overall outfit must not only highlight the character, class and power, but also shape the unique world view in the film, he emphasized: “Characters should be very proud of their outfit, and 200% agree with their dress.” ”
| From the character class, design the clothing characteristics of the five characters
We have characters from different worlds, but everyone pays attention to how they dress.
For fashion designer Michael Wilkinson, each character is using the outfit on the body to show his strength and status, so he relies on the characteristics given by director Guy Ritchie to draw design sketches and select fabric materials, and strive to maintain not only modern British style, but also full of modernity and drama.
Here’s what Wilkinson explains about character costume design:
Mickey classic British suit
Mickey is a drug lord who is about to retire, although his clothing is a classic British suit, woven with high-end fabrics such as pane patterns and Glenn checker, but the overall look is younger and looser than ordinary suits, which makes people feel his confidence and calmness in controlling power, and because its raw materials are cashmere and silk, it is very light to wear, actor Matthew McConaughey quite likes this outfit, and even keeps a set at home.
Ray Casual British Suit
As Mickey’s right and left hand, Ray often has to ignore the law to achieve tasks, but his personality is relatively casual and easy to do, so his clothing tends to be casual, and he wears a Barbour cotton jacket, knitted tie, tweed suit vest and custom shoes, etc., and is a criminal with excellent dressing taste.
Fletcher’s distressed leather jacket
Private investigator Fletcher is an important figure who dominates the direction of the film, and his image is referenced by the director Federico Fellini in the 1970s, revealing an unfathomable temperament through distressed leather jackets, turtleneck sweaters, and crocodile leather boots; Among them, the RayBan folding sunglasses on his face are specially made of reddish-brown lenses with a hint of purple-gray shade, outlining his cunning and suspicious personality.
Coach street sportswear
Coach is both a boxing coach and a big parent of street gangsters, so the appearance of the sportswear he wears is actually based on the fabric of a classic British suit, and shows a more dynamic modern style by enlarging and brightening the texture; In addition, the 1980s reading glasses on his face are also characteristic accessories that show his eccentricity, making his overall look both unique and bold.
Dry Eye premium wool coat
Dry Eye, a new British gangster, wears lavish clothing, not only wearing a turtleneck Merino wool jacket, pinstriped wool pants, and expensive leather jackets, but also a gold necklace around his neck, highlighting his ambition for power. Although he aspires to be the boss of the mafia in his heart, his outward behavior is still influenced by street gangsters, so he also wears loafers designed by designer Christian Louboutin, showing his pursuit of popular values.
I would say that the costume design must be eye-catching and arouse awe.
But at the same time, you don’t have to question whether the results are correct or appropriate.
With the completion of “Aladdin” and “The Gentleman’s Hunt”, costume designer Michael Wilkinson, in addition to believing that the latter’s clothing needs to pay attention to more subtleties in order to grasp the balance between reality and fiction, also constantly reminds himself not to go too far by focusing on the basic elements, explaining: “This is the truth of designing clothing, whether it is high concept, superheroes, or contemporary realistic films.” ”
Thanks for reading
End of article
If this article is useful to you
Welcome to follow and like
“
“
“
“
—Michael Wilkinson, Costume Design
—Michael Wilkinson, Costume Design
—Michael Wilkinson, Costume Design